Ambience: A double-height ceiling lends the dining room an airy feel while accommodating a mezzanine level. The minimal décor is corporate but comfortable, focusing all attention on the food.

Best plates: Highlights include foie gras with cambuci (a sweet-sour fruit native to the Brazilian rain forest) sorbet, hearts-of-palm fettuccine with shrimp, and mixed-grain and Brazil-nut risotto. The cheese course is inventively down to earth, consisting of potato purée and semi-melted Gruyère swirled by the waiter into a rich, chewy confection.

Drinks: D.O.M.’s mixologist has crafted a cocktail menu of standards as well as surprises. Try the signature D.O.M. ($35), a sharp but sweet mix of fine champagne and vanilla bean.