Ambience: Sakenohana incorporates an uncanny mix of low-key minimalism and architectural high jinks. Getting through the door is an event in itself: a slim, high-tech escalator shuttles diners up from street level through a glimmering expanse of black mirrors. Once you’re inside, shoes are removed while staff clad in black kimonos kneel in traditional style to serve.
Décor: Raw Japanese timber dominates. A matrix of dramatic, Escher-like arrangements of wood hangs over the low-lying tables and traditional screens.
Food: The menu offers honest kaiseki cooking with a modern kick. Try the soft-shell crab in divine fish-stock dashi ($30) and succulent sushi and sashimi; scallop was a favorite ($6). Splash out on the Kobe beef that’s ceremonially cooked at the table, or the white-truffle rice (both $140).
Tippling: Sake is a specialty here. The resident expert, Stuart Hudson, will negotiate the 60-strong selection of rare, vintage shochus and taruzakes (from $140). If it’s a cocktail you’re after, try a sakatini, a fresh, superdry martini infused with cucumber ($17).
