Atmosphere: Eschewing the latest trend toward sterile gastropubs, the Warrington retains a traditional feeling, with a marble fireplace, ornate woodwork and cozy corners. The restaurant upstairs is done in clean whites with cream wall coverings and gorgeous stained-glass windows.
Starters: Ramsay serves classics with a twist, pairing potted duck with sourdough bread, and the black pudding with a poached egg and mustard dressing. For something lighter, there’s an endive-and-walnut salad served with Colston Bassett stilton.
Mains: The chicken-andmushroom pie has a perfect, flaky crust, while each serving of Cornish crab comes two ways: half dressed with a light mayonnaise mixture and the other half with a tangy Worcestershire sauce.
Drinks: The beer menu includes unusual brews like Wells & Young’s Banana Bread, which adds bananas to the hops. The double-chocolate stout combines dark beer with dark chocolate and chocolate malt. There is also an extended wine and champagne list.
