A hair dryer set to the highest heat setting may also help dry up flowing resin if you don’t have a heat gun handy. You have the best chance of encountering oozing knots in pieces of wood that have been cut within a matter of days.
While you’re at it, be sure to remove any loose wood chunks or splinters you find in the area surrounding the knot. A pair of tweezers can come in handy for this. Simply slapping an extra layer of paint or stain onto a bleeding pine knot won’t cut it. The natural oils and resins in softwoods are so potent and persistent that they can leach through multiple coats of finish. [3] X Research source
You can pick up a container of epoxy from any hardware store or home improvement center for around $3-5. Make sure the epoxy you buy is specifically formulated for use on wood surfaces.
Wipe off any epoxy that finds its way onto the wood around the knot using an old rag saturated with acetone. [6] X Research source If you don’t own a putty knife or trowel, a wooden paint stirrer stick or tongue depressor can make an acceptable substitute. Some epoxies come with their own applicator tools, which generally work well for applying and smoothing the product.
Check the specifications on the label of the product you’re using for more information on drying times and other guidelines that you may need to know. [8] X Research source Keep in mind that the temperature and humidity of your work area could have an impact on how long it takes your epoxy to set up. Fluctuations in temperature and moisture tend to slow down the curing process.
After sanding, wipe the surface with a damp cloth to clear away dust, then wait for it to dry before moving on. Progressing from a medium-grit sandpaper to a high-grit sandpaper (somewhere in the range of 120-grit to 400-grit) tends to provide the best results for delicate wood finishing tasks.
A basic white or off-white primer will provide the optimal depth of color for your chosen shade of paint. If possible, use a brush that’s roughly the same size as the knot you’re covering to avoid over-applying the primer.
Running the air conditioning or switching on a ceiling fan or portable box fan in your work space can help speed things up a bit.
A good rule of thumb when working with knotty woods is to continue applying thin coats of primer until you can no longer see the knot you’re trying to conceal. Another advantage of using epoxy is that it will prevent the knot from absorbing primer, meaning it will disappear from sight much faster.
As you did when letting your initial coat dry, leave the surface to sit undisturbed to avoid interfering with the primer’s ability to cure properly.
Stick with a latex- or oil-based paint. These will do a better job of sealing the underlying wood than water-based paints, offering an additional layer of protection against bleeding. [15] X Research source You’re free to apply your primary color using a roller, brush, or sprayer. Select the tool that enables you to work most efficiently given the exact size, dimensions, and style of your piece.
Remember to use a knotting solution or shellac-based clear coat to seal the knots. Pigmented primer will show right through the stain, even if you use multiple coats. Apply as many coats of stain as it takes to achieve your desired depth of color. It’s not unusual for woodworking and home improvement aficionados to use as many as 4 or 5 layered coats. Staining can be a good alternative to painting if you want to showcase the unique grain patterns in the pine surface.
