For example, your installation location might be a 7 by 7 inch (18 by 18 cm) square and your paver 7 by 8 inches (18 by 20 cm). In this case, you need to cut a 1 by 7 inch (2. 5 by 17. 8 cm) piece from the longer side of your paver.
If you need to cut multiple points of the paver, create additional cutlines. For example, if you need to remove 2 corners of the paver, draw cut lines around each of its corners.
Avoid hitting the chisel too hard—you might break off too much of the paver. If you can’t find a flat surface, place your paver onto a piece of plywood held up by 2 sawhorses.
If you’re having trouble, score around the cutline with your cold chisel again.
Place your paver on a sandbag if it gets unsteady. Use a stone carving file to smooth out problematic spots. Push the file away from you and then lift it up instead of grinding it back and forth. .
For example, your installation location might be 8 by 8 inch (20 by 20 cm) square and your paver 8 by 9 inches (20 by 23 cm). In this case, you need to cut a 1 by 9 inch (2. 5 by 22. 9 cm) piece from the longest side of your paver.
Don’t draw side lines on your paver—you don’t need to cut along them.
Make sure that the teeth of the diamond blade are pointing in the opposite direction of the paver. Select a blade designed for cutting stone if you are working with stone pavers or it won’t cut through them properly. Be sure to use a diamond blade specifically designed for cutting masonry and stone. This will help to prevent the blade from becoming blunt too quickly.
Put a rubber mat or small carpet under the paver to prevent it from moving.
If you don’t have a step nearby, firmly hit the tip of the paver onto a flat, concrete surface. However, this method is more likely to create a jagged edge. Even out jagged edges with a hammer and 1 inch (2. 5 cm) wide cold chisel. You can also use a stone carving file by pushing it away from you and lifting it up.
